The point of Daikanyama

Nestled between Ebisu and the southern fringes of Shibuya on the western centre of Tokyo is a little district, similar in feeling to Greenwich Village or Wimbledon in London. If you've ever had the enjoyment of watching "Lost in Translation" and you don't know Tokyo (and even if you do) there's a line that doesn't ring true when the newbies to Japan say "let's go to that little sushi place in Daikanyama". Two days on the ground and you'd never knew it existed.

Though the dancing lesson reference is hilarious. One station for the stopper trains to Yokohama and three main intersections, perched on top of a bluff between the Shibuya and Meguro rivers, it's the area the people who know, know. Created with concrete to protect from the shocks of earthquakes following 1923's levelling of the city, it has slowly morphed into the fashion district of Tokyo. You can walk the streets, but you're not going home without buying something.

And so what is the point of Daikanyama? Home to Tora-san (you can research that one yourself if you don't already know), a gift given away as a Philippines embassy, location of awesome photographers and place where The Last Samurai would visit his brother. It's a residential oasis in the centre of Tokyo, one of the three global cities on the face of the planet. And if you visit, you're going to find somewhere for a coffee. And then you can sit and watch the world go by. Welcome to Japan.

An Oasis in the centre of a city

Tokyo is busy. Seriously busy. With arguably thirty million people living within commuting distance of Shibuya Crossing, there are not many places on the planet that so many people call home. But right in the centre there are small oases of tranquility and one of those is the Asakura House in Daikanyama. Built in 1919, it's survived the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the days of the Pacific War. Not too shabby for a hundred year old wooden structure. Granted its struggles were in its younger days.

The interesting thing about Tokyo though, is that there is a lot to do but not actually that much to see. The city at night is a stunning array of light but during the day it's a pretty big piece of concrete. Think of London and immediately Tower Bridge, St Paul's and Big Ben come to mind. New York you've got The Empire State Building and Central Park. But Tokyo? Arguably one of it's most iconic centres is the Tsukiji fish market (and that's about to close its doors to relocate to a new home).

Tokyo is an awesome city with hidden gems around every corner. If you want to listen to good old vinyl records you are genuinely spoilt for choice. Near where I live there is a library where you can order a beer. At 3.00AM! And even closer there is a bar where the husband and wife owners compete with each other over who know's 1970's rock better than the other. But if you would like just a little bit of down time, the Asakura House will set you back a dollar. And you can sit and watch life go by.

The Log Road of Daikanyama

Daikanyama, the village styled neighbourhood sandwiched between Shibuya and Ebisu, has had a great run in the last few years. Already home to some of the most fashionable stores around, T-Site opened providing the outdoor street side cafe environment Tokyo cries out for. The fact that the organisers also like classic cars and hold Ferrari and Austin Healey rallies there on a regular basis doesn't hurt too much either in my book. 

Then the accursed level crossing was closed and the train line was dropped below ground level. Overnight. And if you'd like to see that happening, you can find it here. Honestly, you'll catch yourself cheering with the crowds. Then it was announced that the new Shibuya Station redevelopment will provide direct access on the south side of the 246, the main East / West highway through Tokyo, some five minutes walk away.

And now the unused remaining rail tracks above ground have been converted into a new pedestrian area. A Fred Segal luxury lifestyle experience and the world famous Tartine Bakery and Cafe. And tomorrow, Kirin are very kindly throwing a Grand Opening party. If you happen to be in the area, should be and interesting time. But the question of questionable English arises once again. Why "Log Road"? Even "Timber Road" would be better. Then you could have a few beers and stand at one end and see if your voice carries the entire length as you shout the predictable "TIMBEEEERRRRRR!" Which you just know is going to happen now anyway.

  

Prince William of Daikanyama

The Japanese Royal Family has little chance to express itself. Although remaining fundamentally popular, their lives are controlled through the Imperial Household and their pubic personas are limited to the occasional poem and the odd birthday statement of thanks. That was until this week when Crown Prince Naruhito broke all protocols and spoke his mind directly to the press, making himself a hero to many as he challenged the direction current politics were taking. He then took a jog around the Palace.

But this week Prince William, second heir to the throne of the United Kingdom is on tour in Japan. And the crowds have gone wild. Today he visited Diakanyama, a small suburb of Tokyo and people started arriving four hours in advance. They stood in the freezing weather in hope of the chance to glimpse the future King of England. It was families, kids, old couples and young alike. And many brought their dogs, one dressed in a magnificent Union Jack outfit. And did I mention it was cold?

People are simply delighted, and somewhat amazed, at William's relaxed and friendly approachability. He walks and talks to the crowds, shaking hands and, something almost unheard of, smiles with them. As he got out of his Jaguar this morning the assembled throng surged forward for the chance to take their ultimate picture. And this afternoon he is leaving to visit Tohoku and see the devastation for himself. I'm assuming by helicopter, something he could actually fly himself. Japan has a new celebrity Royal. And he's not Japanese.

Daikanyama - a hidden gem of Tokyo

Tokyo is an interesting city where there is much to do but not actually that much to see. The view of the Emperor's Palace is only the gate, the Imperial Hotel was a sight to see and then was knocked down to be replaced by a concrete monstrosity. But at least Tokyo Station has been renewed in fine fashion to its former glory. In fact it could be said the most interesting thing to see in Tokyo is Tokyo itself, especially at night.

However there are many small and fascinating districts. Roppongi, Ginza, Shibuya are well known outside the country but somewhere like Jiyugaoka remains fairly well hidden to the tourist train. My favourite though is Daikanyama nestled between the outskirts of Shibuya, Nakameguro and Ebisu. It has an air to it similar to SoHo or Wimbledon Village. You feel your somewhere different, somewhere not quite in Japan.

Recent years have seen significant redevelopment though as Japan renews itself every thirty years anyway, this is no surprise. The old KLM compound has been replaced by a luxury apartment complex and Eddie has left Tableaux but the boutiques and bars are as vibrant as ever. And then there's T-Site, a marvellous concept of book stores, sound equipment, Starbucks, restaurants and coffee lounges. And surprisingly, they really like dogs. I'm off for a walk.

Look out Japan, I've arrived!

My new book, "The Expat's Guide to Japan" is nearly ready to roll. The final touches have been made to the edit and the only thing left is the cover shot. Being an expat's guide, the idea was to show an expat with a beautiful Japanese girl in kimono. The brief to Eddie, the expat, was to think "look out Japan I've arrived" and the brief to Rumi, the kimono girl was to think "this is going to end in tears".

The pictures were taken by the wonderful Imano-san from And Photo in Daikanyama. At the end of the planned session she saw an opportunity, grabbed her camera and started working around the pair of them taking some incredible, totally unscripted shots.

And now I have a new problem. There are so many great shots I can't decide what to use for the cover of my new book. But I do know Japan has some very creative, young, female photographers. And I also owe a big thank you to Eddie and Rumi for being awesome and Christophe and Asuka for lending me the sword which is real. And very sharp.

It's a dogs life

It's tax day in Japan. Each year anyone with income over a certain amount or anyone with non-employment income, has the pleasure of filing a return and donating a substantial sum to the government. I don't mind paying tax but as with the good residents of Boston, it always seems unfair that I also don't have a vote. And as I also don't get to pour tea into the harbour, I'm going to take my dogs into Daikanyama, have a coffee and sit and watch the world go by.