Tokyo: Three images of a life unconfined

Copyright Aurora Simionescu

It's always an interesting question I'm asked by friends visiting the country, "What do you recommend we go and see?". And this is always followed by a brief, and somewhat awkward pause as you try to frame the answer in such a way as not to cause crushing disappointment. Because the truth is there actually isn't very much to see in Tokyo, at least in the conventional sense. Yes, there are the beautiful art galleries and a lot of cool architecture, but that's not really specific to Japan. However, if there is not that much to see, there is so much to do.

Harajuku Girl - Copyright Gajderowicz

The insane crossing in Shibuya is worth an experience along with the Blade Runner screens and the thousands of people, intertwining like a precision marching band, threading through each other every time the lights change. Getting lost from your friends at a hanami party under the cherry blossom and being gently led back to you group; visiting your local police station to recover your wallet after you dropped it in the street and some kind soul handed it in. And then there's the photograph with Hachiko, the Cosplay of Harajuku and the youth of Takeshita-Dori. Oh, and then of course, don't forget the food.

But if you really want to see something, a heads up: The Palace is simply a gate, the grassy expanse  beyond which no-one but the high flying drones will ever observe. The shrines can be interesting, Meiji, Zojoji and Asakusa being three of the best in the city (though avoid the afternoons) and each with its own history. Golden Gai and the Robot Cafe are perennial favourites but Drunkard's Alley has more character and Ebisu Yokocho has more laughter. And if you really still want to see something that will take your breath away, see the night. It's the greatest view a city can offer. And this one is world class.

All Rights for photograph to Masashi Wakui (love your work!)

The Cosplay Lifestyle of Japan

Princess Leia chases Chewie at Comic-Con

Cosplay, (short for costume play) is not uncommon at conventions and exhibitions around the world especially at events such as Comic-Con in the US where people dive into characters that are astonishingly realistic, many deserve a worthy mention and a few should maybe try again the next year. The word, though not the practice, is Japanese in origin dating back to 1984 when it was coined by Nobuyuki Takahashi writing in a manga fan magazine about a science fiction conference he's attended in Los Angeles.

Cosplay in Harajuku on a sunny Sunday afternoon

But Japan takes this harmless hobby to a whole new dimension. Here, it's not reserved for special events or conventions, in Japan it's a completely immersive way of life. Walk the streets of Harajuku in central Tokyo on a Sunday afternoon and you'll meet every whip wielding nurse or Alice attired maid you could ever want to see. The costumes are often incredibly elaborate and may share a theme between entire groups of fans, co-ordinated and dressed to kill. Indeed, the entrance to the Meiji Shrine is often packed with (predominantly) young women getting into costume and character for a day out on the town.

And now Tokyo Disneyland is throwing its doors open to the Cosplayers for two special weeks before Halloween, allowing adults, rather than only children, to enter the fun by joining the spectacle. This being Japan there are of course rules; Disney Characters only please; it's a family event, no uncovered shoulders or tummy buttons; no full face make-up and nothing to impede the mobility of others. Apart from that, if you want to hang out for the day as Snow White, Donald Duck, Captain Jack Sparrow or The Incredibles, Tokyo Disneyland is waiting for you. Knock yourself out.

Harajuku to Shibuya - from Madonna to Lady Gaga

For many, Ginza is a favoured destination when visiting Japan. The chic stores and wide streets allow every foreign brand to display their wares to the rich and relaxing of the world. But that's the point, in reality it's nothing you can't find on 5th Avenue, Bond Street or the Champs Elysees. Or at an airport duty free shopping plaza for that matter. Originality is thin on the ground and even Japan "exclusives" will have their origins in the global product range.

And yet Japan drives youth fashion across Asia and indirectly youth culture globally. On a Sunday afternoon any time of year when the weather is good, take a train to Harajuku station and walk along Takeshita Dori. Not a single foreign fashion brand will be on display. Each and every store is a small boutique, product often hand-made during the week, sold during the hectic weekends; only a few items of each design available. The turn around time for concept to shelf isn't measured in months but days. The fashions are cutting edge relevant.

From Takeshita Dori cross Omote Sando, avoiding the European fashion brands, walk slowly along Cat Street. The street will be packed with teenagers, each looking as individual as they possibly can. It's a myth that everyone in Japan wants to conform, to be identical. These are as individual as it comes. And then it's Shibuya. The 109 building is the Mecca of youth fashion. And this is where Lady Gaga, Madonna and the rest go every time they visit Japan. And it's where the ideas come from. In some ways, Shibuya 109 really is the spring waters of global youth fashion. And you probably won't want to go to the Ginza stores again until you're back at the airport.